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Evidence-based guidance
Safe Bird Feeding:
Best Practice Guide
Feeding garden birds remains one of the most powerful things you can do for wildlife. The key is doing it in a way that protects the birds you love without putting them at risk.
Feed On. Just Feed Right.Clean feeders thoroughly every week
Food waste and dirt that builds up around ports and perches stays damp — and damp is where Trichomonosis can survive the longest. Weekly cleaning is the single most impactful thing you can do.
Move feeders — and spread them out
Even with thorough cleaning, the ground below a feeder can become contaminated over time. Moving feeders regularly eliminates this risk.
Be careful with flat surfaces and cheap food
Bird tables and ground trays are where disease risk is highest, so regular cleaning is crucial. And cheap seed mixes that birds rifle through, drop and leave to rot on the ground make the problem significantly worse.
How to clean feeders properly
We recommend having at least one spare, clean feeder ready so you can swap it straight in while the dirty one is being cleaned and dried. This makes the process much easier and ensures your birds always have food available.
Step by step
- Empty completely — remove and dispose of all remaining food properly. Never simply top up over old food.
- Disassemble fully — take the feeder apart including ports, base and any perches. If your feeder cannot be fully disassembled, replace it with one that can.
- Scrub with hot soapy water — use a dedicated feeder brush (not your kitchen sponge). Pay attention to crevices around ports and perches where debris accumulates.
- Disinfect — apply a wildlife-safe disinfectant such as Ark-Klens, CitroSan or Safe4. Follow the product instructions.
- Rinse thoroughly — remove all soap and disinfectant residue.
- Dry completely before refilling — a damp feeder undoes all your cleaning. Leave it to air dry or dry with a clean cloth before reassembling.
Positioning and spacing your feeders
Where you put your feeders and how many you cluster together — has a significant impact on disease risk. Two simple principles make a big difference:
Move feeders after every clean
Even if you clean thoroughly, the ground beneath a static feeder will eventually accumulate contaminated debris — droppings, husks, saliva-contaminated seed fragments. Moving to a new spot after every weekly clean breaks this cycle. Don't move it too far so the birds can still find it, just far enough to be away from the last feeding area.
Spread feeders around your garden
Feeding stations that cluster multiple feeders together bring birds of different species into unnaturally close proximity — which is exactly the condition that maximises disease transmission risk. Instead:
- Only use one or two feeders on a single feeding station
- Hang the rest at separate locations around the garden
- Avoid placing feeders directly under trees where roosting birds drop onto them from above
- Keep feeders within 20m of cover (trees, hedges) so birds can retreat quickly from predators
What to avoid and why
Exercise Caution with flat feeding surfaces
You can still use bird tables if you wish as long as you look after them and take precautions. The RSPB took the approach to simply remove them but we want to give you the choice.
The risk comes from food placed on flat surfaces which could remain there for days, becoming damp and mouldy. Sick birds tend to perch on flat surfaces and regurgitate contaminated food that other birds then pick up. The RSPB's own study found feeding trays and bird baths had a 23% positive rate for Trichomonosis — hanging tube feeders had 0%.
If you do use a bird table, we recommend:
- If you put food out on it, clean it daily daily — not weekly
- Only putting out food you know birds will eat in a day
- Add hooks to the sides of the table and hang feeders from them
Avoid cheap seed mixes
Low-quality seed mixes can contain high proportions of fillers that some birds will not eat. Birds rifle through looking for the preferred seeds and discard the rest. That discarded food sits on the ground, gets damp, rots, and becomes a contamination risk. It is also a false economy: you pay for food the birds largely ignore.
- Choose husk-free seeds where possible — sunflower hearts leave virtually no waste
- Only put out as much food as birds will eat in one day
- Clear up any dropped food regularly, especially in warm weather
- Choose good quality feeders with excellent drainage
- If necessary, use a rain guard on seed feeders to help keep the contents dry
13 steps to safer bird feeding
Recommended best practice from the RSPB and the BTO — every step is actionable today.
Clean feeders weekly
Disassemble fully, scrub with hot soapy water, disinfect with a wildlife-safe product, rinse, and dry completely before refilling. Keep a spare clean feeder ready to swap in.
Clear up waste below feeders
Seed husks and droppings build up quickly. Clear them regularly — or switch to husk-free seed to minimise the problem at source. Husk-free mixes like sunflower hearts leave far less waste.
Move feeders regularly
The ground below a feeder can become contaminated over time, even with cleaning. Moving feeders to a new position each week — and sweeping or hosing the vacated area — breaks the cycle.
Spread feeders around the garden
Use only one or two feeders per feeding station. Hang the rest at separate locations. Clustering feeders brings different bird species together in unnaturally close contact, increasing transmission risk significantly.
Only put out food that will be eaten in 1-2 days
Overfeeding leaves food sitting in the feeder or on the ground where it gets damp and goes mouldly. Match the quantity you put out to demand.
Keep feeders and food dry
Use a rain guard on hanging feeders. Position feeders away from walls and fences that trap moisture, and hang them at least 1m off the ground to avoid rain splash-back.
Clean bird tables
Flat surfaces carry the highest disease risk as food can sit there for days, becoming damp and contaminated. If you keep a bird table, only put out food you know the birds will eat in 1-2 days and clean it every day.
Avoid cheap seed mixes
Low-quality mixes can contain fillers birds won't eat. They rifle through, drop the rest, and that discarded food rots on the ground. It is also a false economy — you pay for food birds ignore. Use premium mixes or straight foods like sunflower hearts, where birds eat nearly everything you put out.
Change bird bath water daily
Diseases last longer in standing water, which also attracts bugs that further increase the risk of transmission. Use fresh tap water daily, clean the bath weekly with a brush and wildlife-safe disinfectant, rinse thoroughly, and allow to dry before refilling.
Feed mealworms in spring and summer
Live mealworms produce zero waste at the feeder — adult birds carry them whole in the bill and feed them directly to chicks. They are packed with protein and moisture (critical for chick hydration) and are the closest substitute for the natural invertebrates that have declined by 60% or more across the UK.
Match feeding to demand
Only put out enough food for 1-2 days of feeding. You won't always get this right, afterall birds won't eat the food you put out for them at the same rate all year round. This avoids excess waste in the feeders.
Keep spare, clean feeders ready
Having a spare feeder of each type means you can take a dirty one down for cleaning while the clean one goes straight back up. Birds always have food available, and your cleaning is no longer a reason to skip a week.
Stop feeding if you see signs of disease — and report it
If you see birds that appear lethargic, fluffed up, or struggling to swallow, stop feeding immediately, remove all food and water, deep-clean all equipment, and leave at least two weeks before resuming. Only restart once you have seen no further signs of illness. Report sick or dead garden birds to the Garden Wildlife Health project, which monitors disease in wild birds across the UK.
The diseases to know about
Most are preventable with good hygiene. Here are the main threats facing garden birds in the UK today and what causes them.
Trichomonosis
The most serious current threat to garden birds, caused by a single-cell parasite that infects the throat, causing lesions that prevent swallowing. Responsible for devastating declines in Greenfinch and Chaffinch. Spreads via saliva-contaminated food on flat surfaces and in water. Fatal in nearly all cases once contracted.
Salmonella
A bacterial infection spread through droppings contaminating food, feeders and bird baths. Particularly affects finches and sparrows. The risk increases sharply when feeders and feeding areas are not kept clean, as bacteria multiplies in accumulated droppings and damp seed.
E. coli / Colibacillosis
Peaks in early spring (March to May) and is associated with contaminated feeding environments. House Sparrows and Greenfinches are particularly susceptible. Similar in transmission to Salmonella — droppings in food and on feeding surfaces are the primary route.
Usutu virus
First detected in the UK in London in 2020, now spreading. Carried by mosquitoes that breed in standing water — making daily water changes in bird baths particularly important. Currently affects mainly Blackbirds. No human cases detected from these mosquitoes.
Mould
Damp seed that is not cleared out develops mould, which causes digestive and respiratory problems. Particularly common with cheap seed mixes that birds partially eat and leave. Keeping food dry, not overfeeding, and cleaning feeders regularly all reduce the risk significantly.
Avian flu
Less of a concern for garden birds than for waterfowl, seabirds and poultry — but another reason to maintain clean feeders and avoid unnecessary crowding at feeding stations. If avian flu is reported in your area, follow DEFRA and RSPB guidance on whether to temporarily suspend feeding.